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A Perfect Overnight in Heidelberg


After a bit of a travel break, I'm back! We went to Heidelberg (again) for an overnight with the visiting grandparents, and had a lovely time in the very walkable Alstadt. 

We stayed at the Gasthaus Hotel Backmulde, in the heart of town, after a short drive over from Mainz. Although the hotel has (limited) parking, P8 is just a few blocks away and very reasonable at 17 euros / day. They even have family parking right by the elevator! We loved the little hotel - the three-bed and two-bed rooms (16 and 18) were very spacious, breakfast was perfect, and we could easily explore the city just by walking around the corner. 

We started with quiches, grilled sheep's cheese with veggies, and tea and cake at the lovely Cafe Schafheutle. The garden seating was covered and warm, and the lively atmosphere and friendly waitstaff made it easy to stay and thoroughly enjoy our lunch. We continued to wander, mostly popping in and out of shops, finding a collection of unique items at the GOODsHOUSE shop. There was so much to look around that I went back for a second look (and bought a cool soccer-player clock, an Austrian-made milk pot, and several Green Toys). The vast pedestrian-only zone was ideal for kids, and wandering the alleys, we often stumbled across beautiful historic buildings along the way. 

Dinner was tasty, if not greasy, at Adelita's for Mexican food. A huge table in the back, quesadillas and fries for the kids, margaritas for the adults, and (bonus!) they even had a diaper changing table that was accessible to all (e.g., not confined to the women's restroom, as they too often are). It's the little things.

The next morning, we walked over to P12, the Bergbahn starting point. I found the pricing a little confusing, but it turned out to just go to the castle, there was only a child discount (kids under 6 free, woo hoo!), not a senior discount. For 7 euros per adult then, we got return tickets plus castle entry. Heidelberg castle is a bit funny in that it's more ruins than full-on castle, so there isn't a ton to see inside the castle walls. The grounds, viewpoints, and walking paths, however, are really lovely and worth spending a few hours. 

We were a bit time-restricted due to a kids' birthday party, so we headed back fairly quickly, wandered through the Old Bridge (once again, pedestrian only) on the walk back, picked up the car, and made our way back to Mainz. All in all, it's the perfect city for a quick overnight stop and very family friendly. 

If you liked this, you may like to learn about visiting the Alsace region! 

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