Ah, vacation. We headed off to Rome a week before the European Easter break began, to lovely weather and manageable crowds. I had done a bit of research before our arrival, but we mostly played the trip by ear. With three kids across four adults, we had no other choice... but what we did in 7 days could probably be accomplished in 4 quite easily. So here's your itinerary:
Day 1:
Upon arrival at Fiumencino airport, we took a pre-booked shuttle (with car seats!) directly to the city - we'd been advised it was much easier, faster, and simpler than the train, and I'm so glad we did. We stayed near the Vatican, at a lovely apartment that was way below the cost of a hotel and had everything we needed for the week. Within five minutes, you could be at St Peter's Basilica or any mode of public transportation to get you into the more central / touristy part of the city.
We spent the first day stocking up on wine, cheese, and necessities for the apartment... then planning the days ahead. Since the next day was Sunday, we headed out to the Borghetto Flaminio flea market. It cost 1.60 euros to enter, but was lightly crowded, had a lot of authentic vintage leather goods (especially for the Louis Vuitton fans out there... ), and took about 2 hours to go through in all. After scoring some cool copper pots and a Burberry coat, and a snack at Porchettoni del Rione, we headed across the river to start Rick Steve's Heart of Rome walking tour. Though we had the guidebook, we could have downloaded the audio guide to the tour on Rick Steves' free (and awesome) Audio Europe app. But first, we grabbed lunch at Numbs - well-priced, well-located, and tolerant of 2 families with 3 crazy kids. Then it was off on the tour.
We definitely stopped for gelato at Piazza Navona, along the way, and a bit of shopping near the Spanish Steps (note: there is a great selection of designer shops packed here... be warned!). Then we hopped the metro back across the river and back to the apartment for a quiet evening. I was on baby duty this night, but was told the food at Il Matriciano was fabulous (note many restaurants do not open until 7:30 or 8 pm for dinner - a bit late for the smaller set. Good to have a backup plan for their meals, as appropriate).
Day 2:
Today we headed off to see the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. Although we bussed there, the metro would have been far quicker. Either way, transit is an affordable 1.50 euros, which allows about 100 minutes of travel, great for short out-and-back treks. A great tip was to buy our tickets at the Roman Forum - entry to the Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum for 12 euros, with a much shorter line than at the Colosseum.
We used Rick Steves' free audio tours here again, which worked out well considering the antsy little people got bored quickly (despite my exciting tales of lions, tigers, and bears meandering about in search of human food in the Colosseum). Learning about the history and imagining what life was like was so incredibly interesting. While the Forum was mostly ruins, the audio tours brought to life how it became so central to Roman life.
For dinner, I recommend heading back towards the Trevi Fountain but off the touristy path to Colline Emiliane. Not only was the service impeccable, family friendly, and speedy, the food was excellent and well-priced. It's small, so you really feel as much of a local as you can in a city like Rome.
Day 3:
At last, the day for touring the Vatican! We had booked a museum tour in advance, so we took our time getting ready in the morning, had a decent lunch at a touristy spot just in front of the steps to enter the Vatican, and went in to find our tour. There was time to browse the gift shop before - and they had a lot of unique gifts that I didn't see outside the Vatican. Apparently, you can buy rosary beads there, and have them blessed by a priest at the Vatican - something cool to note for a very special gift.
The tour was well-organized among a mass of other tours, but I had to step out and meander my way back due to baby-related activities. It took about 2 hours, and we got lucky with toddler naptime - otherwise the older one would have been bored and restless stuck in the crowded hallways for as long as we were. The museum was amazing, and the Sistine Chapel was a phenomenal end to the tour. Even without the full tour, and with the distractions of 2 small kids, it was something I'll always remember seeing in person.
After the tour, we grabbed drinks at the courtyard cafe, fed the little ones, and headed up to see St Peter's Basilica. The Pope has declared 2016 a Jubilee year, so the Holy Door was open too! Since we were there in the late afternoon, entry lines were short so we easily walked in, went through the door, and explored the beautiful church. For those who wanted to attend Wednesday Mass, it was possible to ask the Swiss guards (at the far west end of the courtyard) for free tickets. We headed back home, with a gelato stop on the way. Dinner this time was around the corner at Nuvolari. Cozy, warm and fantastic food.
Day 4:
We took the fast train (via Italo) to Florence. In 90 minutes, with quite speedy free wifi, we arrived to Florence central station and walked over to the Duomo. Though we didn't pay to go up the tower, we walked around the church and outside, taking in the beautiful architecture. We got lucky with a perfectly blue sky, and a warm sunny day, which made it even more fun for the kids to run around piazzas crowded with people. Florence is made for wandering, so we explored a bit of the old town before making our way to libreria brac for lunch. Though it was decidedly not kid-friendly (I'm pretty sure they cheered when we left), the food was amazing and well-priced. The courtyard between the entry & main seating area also served as a good distraction for the little ones.
We wandered back through the city with a gelato stop on the way back to the train station. Then it was back on the train to Rome for a good nights' sleep before flying home!
Day 1:
Upon arrival at Fiumencino airport, we took a pre-booked shuttle (with car seats!) directly to the city - we'd been advised it was much easier, faster, and simpler than the train, and I'm so glad we did. We stayed near the Vatican, at a lovely apartment that was way below the cost of a hotel and had everything we needed for the week. Within five minutes, you could be at St Peter's Basilica or any mode of public transportation to get you into the more central / touristy part of the city.
We spent the first day stocking up on wine, cheese, and necessities for the apartment... then planning the days ahead. Since the next day was Sunday, we headed out to the Borghetto Flaminio flea market. It cost 1.60 euros to enter, but was lightly crowded, had a lot of authentic vintage leather goods (especially for the Louis Vuitton fans out there... ), and took about 2 hours to go through in all. After scoring some cool copper pots and a Burberry coat, and a snack at Porchettoni del Rione, we headed across the river to start Rick Steve's Heart of Rome walking tour. Though we had the guidebook, we could have downloaded the audio guide to the tour on Rick Steves' free (and awesome) Audio Europe app. But first, we grabbed lunch at Numbs - well-priced, well-located, and tolerant of 2 families with 3 crazy kids. Then it was off on the tour.We definitely stopped for gelato at Piazza Navona, along the way, and a bit of shopping near the Spanish Steps (note: there is a great selection of designer shops packed here... be warned!). Then we hopped the metro back across the river and back to the apartment for a quiet evening. I was on baby duty this night, but was told the food at Il Matriciano was fabulous (note many restaurants do not open until 7:30 or 8 pm for dinner - a bit late for the smaller set. Good to have a backup plan for their meals, as appropriate).
Day 2:
Today we headed off to see the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. Although we bussed there, the metro would have been far quicker. Either way, transit is an affordable 1.50 euros, which allows about 100 minutes of travel, great for short out-and-back treks. A great tip was to buy our tickets at the Roman Forum - entry to the Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum for 12 euros, with a much shorter line than at the Colosseum.
We used Rick Steves' free audio tours here again, which worked out well considering the antsy little people got bored quickly (despite my exciting tales of lions, tigers, and bears meandering about in search of human food in the Colosseum). Learning about the history and imagining what life was like was so incredibly interesting. While the Forum was mostly ruins, the audio tours brought to life how it became so central to Roman life.For dinner, I recommend heading back towards the Trevi Fountain but off the touristy path to Colline Emiliane. Not only was the service impeccable, family friendly, and speedy, the food was excellent and well-priced. It's small, so you really feel as much of a local as you can in a city like Rome.
Day 3:
At last, the day for touring the Vatican! We had booked a museum tour in advance, so we took our time getting ready in the morning, had a decent lunch at a touristy spot just in front of the steps to enter the Vatican, and went in to find our tour. There was time to browse the gift shop before - and they had a lot of unique gifts that I didn't see outside the Vatican. Apparently, you can buy rosary beads there, and have them blessed by a priest at the Vatican - something cool to note for a very special gift.
After the tour, we grabbed drinks at the courtyard cafe, fed the little ones, and headed up to see St Peter's Basilica. The Pope has declared 2016 a Jubilee year, so the Holy Door was open too! Since we were there in the late afternoon, entry lines were short so we easily walked in, went through the door, and explored the beautiful church. For those who wanted to attend Wednesday Mass, it was possible to ask the Swiss guards (at the far west end of the courtyard) for free tickets. We headed back home, with a gelato stop on the way. Dinner this time was around the corner at Nuvolari. Cozy, warm and fantastic food.
Day 4:
We wandered back through the city with a gelato stop on the way back to the train station. Then it was back on the train to Rome for a good nights' sleep before flying home!
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